Hardmoors 55

I'll start at the start...

Hard-"prep"

The inspiration to do this came in a pub. Not so much a drunken dare or bet, but a nudge from a fellow off-road runner on the fringes of Autumn 2009. She said "You should give this a go", and showed me a piece of paper. On it was the Hardmoors site address. Being between challenges - I'd just done the 3 Atlantic Coast marathons - I looked into this. A March ultra didn't seem unreasonable, but I knew this was a step up from my previous 30-something mile efforts.

Training proper commenced about Christmas time. Whilst the general public moaned about the weather I got out and ran around various snow-covered areas of Yorkshire clocking up over 15 most Saturdays in Jan, sometimes low twenties, with a Sunday run and good midweek mileage. When the LDWA calender "thawed out" in February I had a drip-feed of easy-going 20+'s to feast upon. I clocked up a record personal mileage in January and wasn't far off in February too. Training peaked in Feb with a good Rombalds Stride and then a 36m out and back hill-run just two days later. I survived.... confidence built.

This was to be my first experiance of an ultra without food stocked CP. It wasn't all out unsupported as it had two cosy village halls on route where drop bags would be distributed to and tea/coffee was provided. Sorting out in advance what I would carry, what would go in drop bags, preparing food, was more prep than I've ever done before and I'm glad I took a day off to get this sorted and mark up the map before I set off up North.

Hard-"reality"

I've done some good running/walking/cycling in the North York Moors. Some good climbs, steep wooded-valleys and certainly many great views, are to be found - Langdale End area is good for starters. But compared to the Dales, Lakes and parts of Calderdale and the pennines they've often seemed slightly more tame, not so high, not so muddy. But they are still quite remote in places - inhabited just by tiny villages and hamlets - and have there own little weather patterns that can vary wildly from hour to hour and from the plains to north and west.

So then, could the Hardmoors 55, struggle to live up to its aggressive title? Well, for those who've done the Osmotherley Phoenix, the hilliest bit of that event - near the start - features after 22m of this.... and they've thrown in two extra climbs for good measure... and the sections either side aren't plain sailing either.

Due to the early start needed for this event I'd stayed over with Mark and family. So the early start to convoy to Guisborough - the end, dump a car and then travel back to Hemsley - the start, meant no rushing around following a 4am rise. Things were going well enough, well ahead of time, arriving about 50 minutes pre-start. I may have crippled a pheasent that tried to puncture my wheels near the White Horse, but life in the wild is harsh, which is appropriate for some sections of the days event along the exposed northern ridge paths of the Cleveland Way.

I faffed around at the start making last minute adjustments to my back pack contents and slinging some extra stuff into my drop bags and bag of warm gear for the finish. It was warm but raining so I added my best waterproof into my second drop kit bag, suspecting my starter might need a change by then if the rain kept up. It had been raining since the previous night so optimism off it stopping was outweighed by "gut feel" that it wouldn't. At least it wasn't windy. In contrast Mark seemed to be ready with half an hour to spare - I do envy those who can be so organised so quickly and without fuss. My tendency is to over-think, over-organise, over-pack and therefore end up muddling around last minute frantically checking the "small details" and often overlooking more important ones (more on that later).

Hard-"work"

With my warm clothes and drop bags safely stashed in the van for distribution along the route I was ready for the off. Jon Steele gave us an entertaining speel and then the manager/caretaker (?) of the Cleveland set us off -
and I want THAT job -
RING RING,
"Hello",
"Whats that.... a Cleveland way sign crooked near Sutton Bank..... I'll get my trainers on and I'll be there in 2 hours" :¬).

It was almost a dash through Helmsley to the official Cleveland Way start, it seems no matter the race length some people always blast off like its a 10k. Onwards and upwards along steady ascents and descents through fields and woodland. Scenic in a "parkland" sense, nothing hard or moor-like yet. The trend was upwards as we headed west, as I'd deduced in advance plotting the route on map. From Helmsley at about 250ft  we undulated until we arrived at Sutton Bank at 9m and 980ft. Then followed a loop of the "White Horse" on the hillside which involved a descent down wet stone steps to the lower car park and first CP, some wooded trail and a step climb back up. A challenging little loop just to bring us back to the Sutton bank car park we'd just left. On the way out to the White Horse the leader had floated past in the opposite direction towards Sutton Bank, no long distance shuffler I can tell you!

Not sure why, but it was here it occured to me that I had not packed any footwear in to my dry clothes bag for Guidborough - DOH!!!! - an illustration of what I had said before about my tendency for organisational mishaps.

Thing started to get tougher out on the long northward stretch to Osmotherley. The Cleveland way sticks close to the high western escarpment edge of the North York Moors. On a clear day you'd have grand views over the lowlands towards the Yorkshire dales. Today, just mere snippets of this - like tree-lined Gormire lake visible beneath the murk as the path skirted the edge. We were surrounded by this low cloud for the whole section before Osmotherley. There was also a strengthening wind from the north-east gradually combining with precipitation to chill the left-hand side of my body. This section climbs very gradually towards Black Hambleton (1300ft) along about 10 miles of exposed moorland and often quite sloppy track. Mark and I had maintained a good pace, just slowing a little towards 20m, in truth we'd probably not taken enough food on in this early stage as we'd pushed on at sub 11-min/mile pace.

The turn off into Osmotherley was welcomed, dropping beneath the cloud and out of the wind raised our mood even before we got to the village hall and our first drop bag. I'd approached this as the first of three sections of the route. At 22m it was the longest, but also the first and had only really been made difficult by the weather. I dumped my wet t-shirt and sodden wind-proof top in the bag and changed for a long sleeved T and my lightweight "emergency" waterproof - my bulkyfull waterproof being at the Kildale drop, 20m away. It was nice to be dry again. I also gulped down the sandwiches and malt-loaf I'd planned to eat during the first section, washed down with tea and transferred drop bag food and drink top up into the backpack. We didn't hurry outside again, taking a luxurious 15mins indoors and heading back out with renewed optimism.

Section 2 - The climb out of Osmotherley mirrors the start of the Phoenix with a swift climb up to Beacon Hill (980ft) and then onto Scarth Wood moor - a return to no visibility, constant fine rain and wind. My early optimism that my thin waterproof would be upto constant "bombardment" was soon dashed. Following the drop to the start of Live Moor Plantation (456ft) there was an initial steep climb up onto an exposed Moorland ridge. This was a grim section. As it went on each flat section or minor drop would be followed by another climb. On the long north-easterly trek towards and then along Carlton Bank the wind was whipping over the ridge blowing masses of fine rain at us horizontally - like running through a carwash over and over again. It wasn't heavy rain, or strong wind, but it was constant and I was soaked by now. Is this what purgatory would feel like? Briefly I considered the possibility I may be forced to drop out, but I soon dispelled this, thinking "keep moving, keep warm". If I wasn't shivering I was ok, right? Others also fared badly here, some suffered so badly they dropped out later at Kildale. Towards the peak cairn (1340m) I pushed the pace for awhile as Mark had often been doing most of the lead running, but was possibly coping worse than me at this moment, not helped by having taken off his waterproof at Osmotherley. The steep descent towards Lords Cafe eventually came and gave us a little respite, chance to eat some food and for Mark to get his waterproof on away from the worst of the weather

An equally cold climb up to the Wainstones CP followed. We almost missed it in the gloom passing to the wrong side of the rocky outcrop, but were called back by the young lad of CP staffer. I felt for the guy stuck on this exposed, rocky outcrop. The Osmotherley to Kildale section was really packing in the climbs as the Cleveland way visited every ridge summit that it could. I did feel things could only get better, thankfully I was right. I'd mentally prepared myself for the Urra Moor crossing - the highest point on route and on the North York Moors with a trig at 1490ft - to be the worst. I was pleasently surprised, now away from the ridge there wasn't quite the same buffering by wind and rain. We reached another cold and single-manned CP at Bloworth crossing and turned north heading towards Kildale and off these damned hard moors.

It was a miserable uneven stoney track for a few miles, always a "pleasure" when you've done 20 miles, never mind nearly 40. I eagerly awaited reaching the tarmac road just for the smoothness and variety it would offer. When we did get to it I soon wished for softer ground as the descent started, the hard surface jarring my feet and knees. Things were soon better though, Kildale wasn't in cloud and the rain had ceased and the high moorlands were done with! 42.5m done.

There was a retiree at Kildale, she'd looked strong heading out of Osmotherley as we'd arrived, but now looked pale and cold sat down here, before she headed off to lay down. I believe there were several retiree's here. Though my lightweight waterproof had been inneffective on the moors it had dried quick, as had my T underneath - maybe it wasn't so bad up there? I had a warm tea, sorted my food for this stretch and had the luxury of a shoe and sock change. Mark and I left Kildale after about 20mins - a very long stop even by our standards on LDWA challenges. Increadibly the sun was out as we climbed from Kildale upto a hilltop woodland, now low in the sky it lit up the white buildings of Kildale a golden yellow. This meant for the first time today we were able to run in a single layer without discomfort. Climbing stiffly up to the Captain Cook monument I was tired but knew it was now a matter of "when" not "if" I would finish.

The sun had set as we made the last significent climb up to Roseberry topping, short but steep to another remote CP. Heading down the rough steps we knew it was time to don headtorches. Unfortunately my dithering changing batteries cost us a few more minutes and I got cold again. But now we were all systems go for Guisborough. Progress was a bit slow through wet and spongy moorlands, but the torch did its job and we had no navigational issues. Into Guisborough woods and it was warm and the surfaces were easier to run. The town was a sea of lights, still far below and I thought this would be quite a nice place to run around on fresher legs. Glowsticks and one further checkpoint marked the route out of the woods. Now it was just a mile along an old railway track and a turn to the finish at Guisborough Cricket club. We arrived in 12hrs 36mins, which is 14 minute mile pace, most of our early pace was lost between Osmotherley and Guisborough, which was the hardest section of the event by a distance.

Hard-"reward"

It would be pretty sadistic not to have a feast after such a long run and the Indian restaraunt in Guisborough obliged. Starter, curry, rice and nan washed down with a large beer. I didn't eat every bite, my hunger not matching my endurance today. No bad thing as I intended to eat and eat and eat for the next few days (and I have).

Learning the hard way?

It really wasn't that bad, the slow pace after Osmotheley meant my energy levels never went flat, I just got gradually stiffer throughout as expected. I started to feel a bit naucious at about 35m so I need further practice eating on the run. I also need a proper waterproof for future events, one that will keep me dry all day and night if required. I also need to remember to make sure I have dry footwear at the end, on this occasion I was able to partially clean and dry the shoes I'd worn for the last 12m sufficiently to wear them to the restaraunt - not ideal!

Three day weekend... three days running?

Saturday

The weekend before last - bank hol weekend - I headed up to Robin Hoods Bay for the Smugglers Trod. Another first time event for me and an enjoyable run out on a flatter, dryer and more runnable course than many LDWA challenges supply. This was not lost on the running crowd who were there in force and the leaders finished the 26 mile event in an impressive 3:40.

Highlights included generally dry trails over moorland, through fields and along river valleys - Littlebeck; the several mile long, wooded river valley section was very enjoyable. The middle miles varied from solid moorland trails to almost unfollowable trails through heather or long grass. thankfully no major detours or extensions. I was quite glad to get to the CP at the trig high above Ravenscar. After 20m and a long moorland slog with the hard trails no longer enjoyable on battered feet. All that remained was a few miles around the bay to RHB along the old railway line track - quite a nice smooth trail to run, bike, etc... Oh and a slightly sadistic right angle turn downhill to the coast and thus a climb up the 1:4 hill out of RHB back to the finish.

 Hard work, but I could have pushed harder and been faster knowing the route. 4:41 for 26m does stand as my fastest off road 20 something though. Challenging enough as 26m always is, but a million miles away from the Sedbergh Hills race of previous weekend. Great hospitality from the Yorkshire Coast LDWA bunch, loved the efforts they'd gone to with the dressing up and some cracking baking. Yum yums will live long in the memory and I definitely want the recipe if I'm ever to sort myself out some high calorie and high sugar food for something like an Antarctic Expedition!

Sunday

My good intentions for another 10m or so today were dashed by an unscheduled attempt to destroy my liver which didn't finish till roughly 5am. Up at ten I didn't do much all day accept eat. I tried to run at about 6pm. Drizzle had dampened my enthusiasm so I'd downsized plans to 5 or 6 miles. I ended up making decision to return home about 1.5m out, jiggling motion of run was making me feel sick, had to run and walk home very steadily, a very sorry site no doubt.

Monday

All that was bad was good again. I delayed my excursion till early afternoon but I was fresh, well fuelled and the weather was cloudy and a bit muggy. I ran from parents so lacked a water bottle but still managed a speedy 15m on roads and good trails, including a good number of the local short challenging climbs. I planned route to pass - what I hope was - a source of fresh running water at two parts of run, but was still dehydrated by the end. Also tried new shoes, F-lites, which proved, as I suspected to be great on East Yorkshires bone dry trails. Slight blister but 15m out of box isn't bad.

2 out of 3 ain't bad

Marsden Moor Meander

I'm getting a bit behind on these reports, here we go....

The 20 mile+ events just keep coming. This was another organised by an LDWA group, this time The Irregulars. Running in this area, the Colne Valley, was also a first for me. To ready myself I imagined it would be something like the mudfests in Calderdale, just to the North. In reality it was far more runnable, part due to reasonable conditions of late, part probably the route choice of organisers.

Got there with plenty of time before 8:30 start so was able to top up the 6am porridge with tea and toast - a small thing, but it all seems to help. Promptly off at 8:30 and I made schoolboy error of not getting near the front in a walker dominated event. There was a narrow bridge after 10 yards so I wasn't going anywhere fast. Like a lot of these events there is quite a steep climb almost straight away heading out of town to get the blood pumping. I also knew I'd need to be more navigationally-minded than in higher profile events as there weren't many runners and we'd soon spread out over Slaithwaite Moor. This first section was at times uneven, rocky and a bit muddy and soon led to a small valley crossing and across the first - of many - dams on Deanshead Reservoir. Before not to long the M62 was in view and earshot. Took me a bit of time getting to the road, crossing Saddleworth Road, with another descent and some quite wordy instructions. Soon I was through the tunnels under the split carriageway into a steep wooded descent and down beneath a dam wall (Booth Wood Res) to CP1. Cheese and pickle sandwiches, what a start :¬)

Climb up onto towards the next moor now and a bit of indecision over the instruction "in about 75 turn left onto track" cost me 5 mins. I went down it, then thought it was too well made to be a track and much less than 75 yards up road. I headed back checked out further up before heading back. A bit annoyed with myself I pushed on wanting to see if I could catch somebody in front to run with. Past a farm and through a few fields got me onto the moortop, plenty of navigational aids along way and decent footing meant a nice long stretch of running. This continued off the moor and down a track towards the next dam crossing at Green Withins Res. Damn these Irregulars like their Dams! Still good going so ran all the back to and over M62 to nearby CP2. It was Windy at this CP on the accurately named Windy Hill beneath the radio masts. Chocolate crispies were the order of the day.

Around the Windy Hills and dangerously close to Lancashire now ;¬) but a South-eastern turn took me to Piethorne Res. I enjoyed this bit, contouring between and around the lush green hills of the area and then down to and across the edge of Dowry res to CP3. Flapjack and then onwards on the pennine bridleway. Caught up with a few more runners at this point and feeling good. Onto the Oldham Way and then up onto Castleshaw Moor where the path got less distinguished through peat hags, but still with marker posts to keep us on the right track. Myself and the four runners I was closing on now rejoined the pennine way as it ran along gritstone edges. We all leaned at comedy angles towards the cliff edge to counteract a brutal strong wind blasting from the lower lands to the west. Just occasionally a gust would shift you sideways midstride or a gap in the wind would have you swerve towards the cliff edge!

Thankfully we dropped out of the worst of the wind to a main road and the final CP. 17.5m, just before scheduled opening time of CP but thankflly they were open. The final section saw a following of the pennine way, rounding another reservoir mostly on a paved stone path. Not sure how they laid this but its superb and good to run on even when the rain started and it got a bit wet. This long, fast section culminated in a long, steady, descent shadowing Blakely Clough before crossing it and climbing to a small radio mast. It was a steep descent from here, so I went down as safely fast as I could. I crossed the bridge at the valley bottom and climbed to the self clip.

It was now downhill all the way. This was quite pleasent as I seemed to have downhilled a lot of late so half expected a sting in the tail. There must have been a lot of Stealth climb throughout - gradual, almost unnoticable height gain which made the descents more noticable. Don't get me wrong, this wasn't easy, over 3200ft ascent and descent, but rarely have I enjoyed hills so much. I picked up the pace so "road run" speeds on the wide smooth track alongside Blakely and Butterley reservoirs. The tarmac road into Marsden was actually too steep and stung legs, used to softer surfaces for 21 miles. Just a few easy instructions to get through Marsden and I was back at the parochial hall where I'd started 4:16 earlier. Thoroughly enjoyable and well organised, ticked a lot of boxes without being excessive in difficulty, or dificult underfoot. The post-event meal was usual good standard, a nice bit of pasta and then banana's in custard, winning choice.

I think I'll be back for this one in years to come. Cheers "The Irregulars"!

Rules of post race recovery were observed back in East Yorkshire, guiness - for Iron - lager - for hydration - BBQ - for protein and carbs. Sorted!